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A yellow flame is not stronger. It is carbon that never burned.

Flames look yellow all the way up · The bottom of the pan goes black · Black smoke curling round the pan · Only one side of the ring is yellow · The flame floats off the cap and looks detached · It goes out and relights with a pop · Worse after cleaning the hob · Fine on the small burner, yellow on the big one · A new cylinder made it worse
FreeTurn the cap 180°, reseat it, clear the ports
FreeAdjust the damper — but only inside its window
Gas engineerWrong jet for the gas, a burnt cap, or over eight years old
Easy · 15 min · The damper is the only adjustment, and it fails in both directions

A hob in side view with a pan on the trivet, the base of that pan, and flames on both sides of the cap; below left, the injector in section with its nozzle, venturi throat, primary air intake and damper; below right, the cap from above with a blocked sector of ports

diagnose
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what to touch fault correct Click the pan, the injector, or the cap

Blue is not “cold” and yellow is not “hot” — it is the other way round

Ask anyone in a kitchen and they will tell you a yellow flame is a strong flame. It is the most expensive sentence in the room. Methane and propane burn colourless — a fully burnt flame is almost invisible in daylight. What you see as blue is not soot at all: it is the chemiluminescence of intermediate species, CH and C₂ and excited CO, in the inner cone. What you see as yellow is solid carbon particles, heated past about 1000 °C, glowing by blackbody radiation. Those particles exist for one reason: there was not enough oxygen to finish the job. A yellow flame is a flame with unburnt fuel in it, and the same shortage that makes the carbon also makes carbon monoxide. Soot and CO are two outputs of one cause, which is why the bottom of the pan is the best evidence in the kitchen.

So the gas arrives, but gas on its own does not burn well. It has to be mixed with air first, and that happens inside the burner: the gas leaves the jet at speed, the jet crosses a throat and drags air in with it — the venturi effect — and the mixture travels up to the ports already part-mixed. That dragged-in air is called primary air, and the adjustable shutter over the intake is the damper. Too little primary air and the flame cannot finish burning: yellow, sooty, CO. Too much and something else happens — the mixture leaves the ports faster than the flame can travel back down into them, so the flame lifts off and floats, or blows out entirely.

That gives the single most useful idea on this page: the damper has a window, and it fails at both ends. Everyone who discovers the damper does the same thing — turns it until the yellow goes away, then turns it a bit more because more air must be better. Then the flame detaches, and sometimes it goes out and relights with a pop, which is a small explosion in the kitchen. Set it by watching the flame, not by turning until it stops.

Three faults, three answers

The whole flame is yellow and the pan is black underneath is not enough primary air. Three causes, in order of likelihood: the damper is closed too far, which is common after a move, a deep clean, or a change of gas; the jet or the venturi is clogged with carbon and grease, which both narrows the jet and spoils the entrainment; or the cap is deformed so the mixture escapes somewhere it was not designed to. The hard evidence is the pan, not the colour — everyone's idea of “yellow” is different, but soot is soot. Open the damper in small steps and watch the flame shorten and turn blue at the root.

Only one side of the ring is yellow is local, not a chain problem. Ports blocked by spilled sauce or grease reduce the flow on that side and spoil the secondary air around it. A cap that is not seated, or is warped and lifting on one side, lets mixture escape through the gap instead of the ports. The free test that separates the part from the position: turn the cap through 180° and put it back. If the yellow sector moves with the cap, it is the cap — blocked ports or warping. If the yellow stays where it was, the cap is innocent and you are looking at the jet or the venturi on that side.

The flame floats above the ports is too much primary air, or too much pressure. Either the damper has been opened past its window, or the regulator is delivering more than the jet was sized for — a fresh cylinder, a cold snap changing the propane fraction, a regulator on its way out. It is the more dangerous of the two failures, because a lifted flame can go out locally while gas keeps flowing, and then relight. Look at the root of the flame: a normal flame is attached to the port; a lifted one has a visible gap and a pale blue-white root hanging in the air.

Three rules, and the first one is a safety rule. Never run a hob that is producing soot. Soot means carbon monoxide, and CO has no smell and no colour — the pan going black is the only warning you will get. If the flame is yellow and long, ventilate, and do not use the hob until it burns blue. Never change the jet to suit a different gas yourself. Natural gas and LPG need different jet diameters and different primary air, and the difference is written on the data plate as 12T, 20Y, 7R. Fitting the wrong jet gives you a yellow, sooting, CO-producing flame that no amount of damper adjustment will fix. That is a licensed job. A cap that is cracked, burnt through, or visibly warped is not repairable. Nor is a hob over eight years old, where the burner, the damper and the seals have all degraded together.

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